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Monday, June 06, 2005

Paper Chef no. 7 - Feta Souffle with Walnuts, Dates and Feisty Greens

souffle and greens
Paper Chef's deadline is noon on Monday. Hey! That's today, and whoops! It's long past noon, but host Owen of Tomatilla! and judge Julie of A Finger in Every Pie have been gracious enough to extend the deadline since my pathetic excuse is that a "friend" was visiting all the way from the Bay area, and well, let's just say I was a little tied up all weekend.

Bill's Bees Honey
bill's bees make good honey
Buttermilk, dates, eggs, and honey were so clearly fluffy buttermilk pancakes dripping with sweet honey, but just to punish myself for being late, I made myself do something savory. Quite a punishment for someone like me with a killer sweet tooth, you see. So it's Feta Cheese Souffles with Walnuts, Dates, and Feisty Greens in a Honey-Lemon Vinaigrette.

Souffles are brand new to me. In fact, I didn't even have enough ramekins because somewhere along the way, potlucks and such have dispersed them all over LA (filled with things wholly unrelated to souffles). I had to buy another set today. Those got a slippery, buttery rub-down and a dusting of ground walnuts. That's a little idea I've shamelessly stolen from Gourmet magazine. In fact, I'm also about to admit that I snuck the tip of freezing the ramekins for a few minutes. I have no idea what that does, but I trust Alton.

Melting butter, adding flour, and making it all gurgly and bubbly - that's easy. Now I had to just trust my instinct. Would warm buttermilk work? I don't know enough about food chemistry to know if the acid in buttermilk or the little golden butter balls would have an adverse effect on the fussy little chemistry that is a souffle. We'd just have to wait and see.

Cheese is not unusual for a souffle, but I've only ever seen Cheddar, blue, and maybe even something as wild as gruyere. I added feta and just prayed that it would melt in. It did, sort of - a little grainy, but it's feta. That alone makes up for the texture.

The hardest part for me in any recipe is eggs. Slimy soft, glistening golden egg yolks go for a dip and whip in the cheese, and the whites get furiously beaten into submission. Another sneaky little swipe on my part from Joy of Cooking - add one or two more egg whites than yolks and the souffles will rise higher. Another little trick is to build a buttered parchment paper wall up around the ramekin, but what am I? A chef?!?! LOL!

feta cheese souffles
hot oven makes them rise
After I put the filled ramekins into the oven, it took every ounce of restraint in my body to resist the temptation of sneaking a potentially fatal peek. I just had to set the timer and wait. Holy smokes. Waiting sure is hard. But not if you're kept busy slicing dates, toasting walnuts, and making a honey-lemon vinaigrette. Every once in a while, I would stop what I was doing, and look longingly at the oven door. Then I'd catch the evil green kitchen timer ticking down in disapproval. Dates. Walnuts. Honey-lemon. It was tough to stay focused.

But after an eternity which was only really 19 minutes, I opened the door every so softly, ever so gently, and there they were, puffed and golden. I couldn't believe it. I made them! I wanted to scream, but I didn't. But I wanted to, really. Something told me to hold it in; to wait. It would get better. As we moved it all to the table, their tenuous trembling told me that if we didn't work fast, we'd lose the moment forever.

I took a fork and first tickled the soft and tenuous walnut sprinkled top. The fork pierced deep into the souffle, which made first made the faintest of feta sighs. *sigh* And then we just let loose. The edges were somewhat crunchy and somewhat chewy with the ground walnuts. (Next time, maybe toasting the ground walnuts for the ramekin would be better). The souffle was soft and giving, and had the subtle bite of buttermilk and the sharpness of feta. Rich, yet light. Naughty, but heavenly.

walnuts, dates, and greens
sweet and proper walnuts and dates
Every so often I'd break up the rhythm with sweet dates, toasted walnuts, and feisty greens (no prissy little spring mix here) properly dressed up in honey lemon vinaigrette. Salty, sweet and sour, every tastebud stimulated. Delicious delicious bite after bite!

Okay, so it wasn't quite that uh, orgasmic? But don't we all embellish just a little? Besides, this was my first time. ;)

28 Comments:

Blogger Helen (AugustusGloop) said...

Egg whites whipped into submission, feisty greens, skinny-dipping eggs... geez what kind of leather-clad food porn is this? =)

Don't worry. Your souffles rose commendably for the occasion. Hot baby hot. You know how to work it!

Looks great and hilarious write-up as always.

11:54 PM  
Blogger the Kitchen Queens said...

Purrrrrrr, I just luuuuuuuuve feta! Brave experiment gone good...that cripsy salad looks so right next to the souffle. Love, KQ Tai

2:28 AM  
Anonymous caryn said...

Excellent work, Sarah! It all looks very scrumptious. I want to try that souffle...will you post a recipe?

3:08 AM  
Anonymous Melissa said...

these look magnificent, sarah. and i'm very impressed with your restraint. i don't have it - nothing gets baked in my oven without multiple peeks...

4:40 AM  
Blogger chronicler said...

Wiw! The Feta souffle caught my attention immediately! With the greens and dates it i d the perfect summertime lunch!

8:42 AM  
Blogger Sam said...

Not to mention she was "tied up all weekend" !!!

9:21 AM  
Anonymous sarah said...

LOL!!! sam, YOU started it! LOL!

let's keep it G. OK, at least PG-13 - LOL!

9:31 AM  
Blogger mireille said...

what i love about you: you're an exceptional cook with none of the precious artifice (i.e. use of the phrase "easy peasy")AND you have a great sense of humor about yourself and about the food! thank you ...

10:26 AM  
Blogger Owen said...

Another real winner. We had some great savory dishes this time around with ingredients that tilted toward sweet and this one is particularly inventive. Hope you don't mind that I carried on the risque theme in the write-up...

11:05 AM  
Anonymous sarah said...

clearly, i have no problems with risque business ;)

i mean, i just accused some spicy squid of looking like *ahem* and wrote about a *blush* pizza-gasm at a local pizza joint. lol!

and thank you all for such compliments. :)

11:35 AM  
Blogger Eve said...

oh my god! that looks sooooo good!

1:13 PM  
Anonymous Julie said...

You naughty girl! Even on the fly (so to speak) you've made something that's awakened a hunger that will only be satisfied when I've tried this dish. I second the request -- will you share the souffle recipe? And the salad too, although I can probably figure it out...

2:34 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks for letting me try one...ok, I had three! :) JP.

6:05 PM  
Blogger McAuliflower said...

Beautiful entry! Great job

6:24 PM  
Blogger T said...

congratulations sarah! this looks super yummy- i want a bite right now! ill content myself with the picture :-)

9:46 PM  
Blogger Rachael said...

Kudos Sarah! A beautiful dish, a feisty entry and a winner indeed. I do hope you'll post the recipe soon!

-Rachael

12:08 AM  
Anonymous Melissa said...

congratulations - all hail the paper chef! *clap clap clap*

5:00 AM  
Blogger the Kitchen Queens said...

Somehow we knew salty cheese would be a winner this time ;)
Congrats!

5:10 AM  
Blogger Sam said...

Sarah: Your star is rising!
(but is it rising like your souffle or more like your ex-lover when he is town?)

11:35 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Beautiful souffles, Sarah. Now since I can't just invite myself over to your house, where in LA can we get a good souffle? - MelCH

12:49 PM  
Anonymous sarah said...

again, thank you all for your sweet words! i really can't express in words how much this means to me. i just have this stupid silly grin whenever i think about it. and if i weren't at the office, i'd be shrieking like a gleeful monkey - lol!

i will post up an official thank you to everyone shortly, and if i can find all the notes i scribbled whilst making, i will post a "recipe" too. :)

sam: i would say "rising" like the souffle - but hopefully not falling as fast as those souffles deflate when they leave the oven (or my "friend" when he had to go back to SF - lol!)

and i am very new to souffles, not just making, but eating as well. i am not sure where in l.a. there are good ones...maybe someone will have some ideas and leave a comment?

1:20 PM  
Blogger Sam said...

maybe you should come up here to visit your 'friend' and get him to take you to Jacqueline's.
The only thing they serve are souffles.

2:00 PM  
Blogger Lex Culinaria said...

I wandered here all innocent like. Looking to leave a comment on a delicious-sounding souffle, but the comments are so steamy! I will never be able to look at a souffle the same way again!

Great recipe.

3:27 PM  
Blogger Owen said...

I love Jacqueline's - make sure you go to the bathroom because then you get to go by the kitchen with the open door and five thousand metal bowls and several hundred whisks and piles and piles an piles of eggs - and one red-cheeked grandmotherly chef.

I had a valentine's evening dessert there many years ago with my wife and we held hands over a raspberry souffle and ignored the (true to rumor/form) really really rude french waiters

5:31 PM  
Blogger Lady X said...

That souffle looks pretty amazing - I don't believe it was your "first time"! :) Congrats on the win!

6:05 PM  
Blogger chronicler said...

Hail the Chef! The Paper Chef! Great job Sarah, excellent choice by Julie!

10:33 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Without a base, an article cannot be written. This is why we have chosen search as the base for this beautiful article of ours.

3:39 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

You're not a French chefs, but these dishes are perfect!

1:15 AM  

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